Montreal, City of Saints, Foie Gras, and All Things Good. After San Francisco we had this brilliant idea of saving money, but the more we thought about it, the more it didn’t seem right to skip our yearly pilgrimage to the foodie sin capital of Canada. So off on the bus we went one Saturday morning. We arrived at three in the afternoon, devoured as much as we could, and headed back home to Toronto the following Sunday.
Here’s what we did and ate:
3:30pm: Coffee at Café Myriade
Website | 1432 Mackay St
Coffee, kaffe, kahve, is a must on the list. My favourite place in Montreal is Café Myriade.
6pm: Poutine Classique at La Banquise
Website | 994 rue Rachel Est
If poutine is not your thing, try the Portuguese place right across.
After poutine was a little walk around la Parc La Fontaine, a livelier and less manicured version of Toronto’s High Park.
9:30pm: Dinner at Liverpool House
Website | 2501 Notre Dame West
Joe Beef’s sister restaurant is the perfect mix of French bistro and British pub food. The dishes are seasonal, portions are beyond generous (though we were sad to learn we had to pay for bread), there’s some Pakistani influences (rabbit korma, tandoori cauliflower), and the restaurant is best approached with no set expectations. There are no paper menus, only a dark and intimidating black board of French text.
After one hour of analyzing the blackboard, we finally figured out what we wanted. Chicken liver and bone marrow tortellini in a broth full of fresh parsley. The smoked trout with roasted beets and a boiled egg that came with a mint sauce. The hanger steak, by far the best steak we’ve eaten, was tender. The housemade sausage stuffed with jalapeno and coriander came with clams and mussels over a salsa verde. But first, there were some cocktails – a bourbon sour and a summer concoction made with pineapple liqueur.
We wobbled out of Liverpool House a little bit after midnight.
11am: Brunch at Le Gros Jambon
Website | 286 Notre Dame West
Somehow the next day we managed to have brunch, and I have three words for you: BOURBON PEACH PANCAKES. Le Gros Jambon, by appearances, is good old American diner food. For breakfast: pancakes, fried chicken and waffles, huevos rancheros, and egg benedicts. Lunch are the heavy hitters: burgers, and, you know, because you’re in Montreal, why not some DUCK CONFIT BLT sandwiches?
Website | 451& 465, rue St-Jean
After brunch, we did something a bit more…cultural. DHC/Art is a free public contemporary art gallery in Old Montreal. We’ve gone to DHC/Art every year, and the programming just gets better and better. Cory Arcangel will be on show until November 24, a fun exhibition not to be missed!
2pm: Coffee at Pikolo Espresso Bar
Website | 3418B Parc Avenue
St. Viateur Bagel & Café
Website | 1127 Mont-Royal East
Obviously, we had to pick up some bagels to bring back home.
Website | 3895 Saint-Laurent Boulevard
We didn’t have time to sit down to eat, so we brought our sandwiches on the bus.
4pm: Iced tea and Croissant Amandine at Le Couteau
Website | 4627 St-Denis
And finally…Le Couteau. It’s a little bit hidden from the main streets, making it ideal for relaxing, decompressing, and finishing crossword puzzles.